Recipe Crème brûlée (burnt cream) is a recent fad dessert. Thirty years ago, it did not exist. Then it took the world by storm. In France, crème brûlée is hopelessly passé, having long made way for cavity inducing "Nougat Glacé" and ludicrously undercooked chocolate cakes. Crème Brûlée is fun once in a while. Just don't burn yourself, and don't tell your doctor about the yolks and the cream.

CRÈME BRÛLÉE (makes 7 or 8)

• 4 cups heavy cream
• 4 egg yolks
• 2 eggs
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 2 teaspoons good quality vanilla extract
• brown sugar for broiling

Preheat your oven to 325F. The rack should be in the bottom third position.

You will need 7 or 8 custard cups or ramekins, and a pan in which they all fit so that the crèmes can bake in a water bath at least half as deep as the crèmes themselves.

Bring your cream very very close to a boil.

In a large bowl, whip the eggs, sugar and vanilla very well, BUT keep your whisk in contact with the bottom of the bowl. Don't make big up-and-down loops: You don't want to whip too much air in the mixture. If you use an electric beater, don't set it too fast. You want a smooth mixture, but not a fluffy one.

Carefully, pour your hot hot cream on the eggs, while whisking gently.

Pour the custard in  the cups with a ladle. Give the custard one stir with the ladle between each dipping.

Pour extremely hot water in the pan between the cups, either now or in the oven, depending on which is safest for you. Remember that the water should be at least half as deep as the cups.

Bake for 35 minutes and start checking and adding time if necessary. This stage is done when the crèmes are barely set. The center can still be a little wobbly, but not liquid looking. There should be no browning.

Remove from oven very carefully. You don't want to spill water on the skins of the crèmes.

Cool crèmes a bit while you heat your broiler.

With your fingers, drop some dark brown sugar on the crèmes. Smooth it a bit (or not if you prefer a "rocky" look).

Carefully broil your crèmes, one or two at a time, constantly adjusting them so that the sugar melts but doesn't actually burn.

Refrigerate for a couple of hours at least. Serve on the same day.