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The Sacher Hotel in Vienna |
THE SACHERTORTE
and the Sweet Lawsuit |
The Sachertorte is one of those recipes which have a very interesting history, with ramifications in the fields of copyright protection and even intellectual property.
Sometime in the 1830's, either Emperor Franz Joseph or Imperial Chancellor Prince Von Metternich asked Pastry Chef Eduard Sacher, employed by the Demel Patisserie in Vienna, to create a chocolate cake. The new cake would have to be more intense, less fluffy than other cakes (cake guru Maida Heatter calls it "masculine").
The new cake, the Sachertorte quickly became a hit in Vienna. Eduard Sacher left Demel's and built the famous Hotel Sacher.
Both the Hotel Sacher and the Demel Patisserie claimed to produce the "original" Sachertorte. Unbelievably, the two world-famous institutions engaged in a protracted lawsuit which lasted for years. The outcome of the suit was legal arcana, with one place allowed to use the term "original" and the other one "genuine", or something of the sort. One thing is sure however: a little corner Konfiserei in Vienna would not be allowed to call their chocolate delicacy Sachertorte.
Like the very strict Champagne laws of France (no Champagne perfume allowed, merci beaucoup), the Sacher copyright doesn't apply outside Austria, hence the profusion of mail order Sachertorte in gourmet American catalogues. So why don't you open a $6 bottle of US Champagne, and have a party with your own genuine Sachertorte?
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RECIPE
The Sachertorte is a very pure chocolate cake. There is no chemical leavening at all, no baking powder, soda or buttermilk. The leavening, as it is, is achieved by a high proportion of egg whites. Whipped egg whites are unstable and prone to "weeping". This recipe stabilizes the whites with a bit of sugar. Notice that there is as much chocolate in the glaze as in the cake. Some bakers insist on imported chocolate. You will have fine results with Nestlé Semi-Sweet chips. |
SACHERTORTE from the CALIFORNIA CAFE
6 oz (1 & 1/2 stick) butter, not unsalted, not hard
3/4 cup sugar, divided
5 egg yolks
7 egg whites
1 cup Nestlé Semi Sweet chocolate chips OR 6 oz imported bittersweet chocolate
3/4 cup all purpose flour
1/3 cup apricot preserves
Glaze:
3 tablespoons light corn syrup
3 tablespoons water
2 tablespoons butter
1 cup Nestlé Semi Sweet chocolate chips OR 6 oz imported bittersweet chocolate, chopped
Foil and butter a 10" cake pan or a 9" spring form pan (there will be too much batter for a 9" cake pan).
Preheat oven to 350F. Melt the chocolate in a metal bowl set over a pan of simmering water. Let the chocolate cool a bit.
Cream the butter with a hand or stand beater. I mean it, the butter has to become smooth and creamy and pale, not just broken up.
Very progressively, beat in 1/2 cup of the sugar (you will use the remaining 1/4 cup soon).
Very progressively, beat in the egg yolks.
Mix in the lukewarm chocolate.
With clean beaters, in a clean bowl, beat the egg whites until you reach a very soft shape.
Add the remaining 1/4 cup sugar to the whites and keep beating until you have a definite soft shape, but not until firm.
Gently fold half of your whites into the chocolate batter (click here for folding instructions).
Holding a strainer over the bowl, sift the flour over the batter, then fold it gently too.
Finally fold the rest of your whites in the batter.
Turn into the prepared pan and place into the oven, with the rack in the middle position.
Set timer for 40 minutes.
Test for doneness with a wooden toothpick poked in the center of the cake and removed slowly. It should come out clean. If you're not quite sure, five more minutes in the oven won't hurt.
Cool cake completely in the pan. Many recipes state that the layer ought to "ripen" overnight. Go ahead if it suits your plans.
Cover cake with your serving plate and invert everything.
Remove pan, then gently peel off the foil. Brush away any loose crumbs.
Using your lazy Susan if you have one, and a long knife, split the cake into two slices.
Gently lift off top slice. Spread apricot preserves over the bottom slice, not quite to the very edge.
Replace the top slice of the cake over the bottom slice.
Combine the water, syrup and butter in a small saucepan and bring to a boil.
Throw in the chocolate, turn fire off and stir very often until smooth. Wait a bit until the glaze is not too runny to use it, but you don't want it to harden prematurely for you. The temperature of the cake and of the room make a big difference.
Pour the glaze over the cake. Smooth the sides with a knife, then the top. A lazy Susan is most helpful.
You may save a bit of glaze, reheat it and write SACHER on your cake after an hour or so. Black on black, very chic.
Do not refrigerate. Keeps very well for several days. Serve with whipped cream if desired.
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